Posteo was the winner when I last looked over the alternatives, although I haven't switched yet. Tuta, mailbox.org and Runbox were runners up.
Various reasons (mostly price, provider getting blocked too much, and being in the USA) led to a hard "no" for CounterMail, Soverin, Mailfence, StartMail, Fastmail, Proton, RiseUp, Hushmail, Skiff and Mail.com.
It's likely you don't need a VPN. You're putting a lot of trust in that company; make sure it's well founded. I just use my ISP for normal stuff, then when I want to surf under the radar for one reason or another I open up Tor.