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Shitty first layer on "big" parts, need some help


I have a cheap bedslinger, an Anycubic Kobra 2, and generally it's a pretty decent printer at the price. I have flashed klipper FW on it, so I'm not using Anycubics FW.
I have issues whenever I try printing bigger parts, the first layer is always complete shit (see post photo).
Heightmap, measured with inductive probe !heightmap range is only 0.085mm from min to max, so it should be reasonably flat. The heightmap is automatically recalibrated and loaded as part of my print_begin macro.
Slicer settings for line width !slicer settings for layer widths
I don't know if my printer just doesn't correct Z-height during first layer, if my line width settings are completely messed up or what is causing this, but the issue is only apparent on bigger parts with large contract surface on the bed.
[SOLVED] It was just Z-offset that was too low causing this. however when running the calibration routine from ellis3dp on first layer squish, the settings that looked good on the small calibration patches, looked like crap on bigger prints. I needed a bit higher Z-offset, but that solved it.
Help wanted


Update: TL;DR: I cleaned the z-axis, replaced the nofep, installed the latest Chitubox (2.1) and cleaned up my profile to get it working
Hello, I hope someone will see this and be able to at least point me in the tight direction. As at this point I’m becoming desperate.
My Epax E10 4k is acting up, and I do not know why.
Part of the print is fine (see images) and then other parts are just stopped at a certain layer, with the rest stuck to the noFep.
I tried different prints, to make sure it wasn’t a layering problem, but alas… each single print suffered from the issue. The larger prints would ‘hang’ over non-printed layers…
I recalibrated my printer, changed the fep…
The one difference from before is the resin. I used to buy epax hard and tough, but my regular resin dealer doesn’t sell them anymore, heck it seems it is no longer available in europe. So I switched to the next best thing on the Epax compatibility list: eSun hard and tough.
Anybody have any clever idea?
Any ideas what causes this in overhangs?


When I do an overhang test, I always have this problem at about 35°. Does anyone have a suggestion what could be causing it?
- Slicer: Orca
- Layer height: 0.2mm
- Infill: 0% (this has improved it a lot, I think the infill was causing bulging)
- Outer walls: 2
- Overhang speed: 10 or 20mm/s (both look the same)
Solution: I mistakenly thought overhang speed in Orca was based on overhang angle, it is percentage instead (which makes much more sense for different layer heights). My 10-25% overhang speed wasn't set to slow down and that must translate to about 35° at 0.2mm layer height. I now have it set to 30mm/s and it now looks great 👍 And sorry, I was wrong when I stated the overhang speed 😅
Follow-up: Upgrading from Cura 4.12 to 5.6 no longer heats extruders or bed


Hi folks, this is a follow-up to my previous post here.
To briefly summarize, when upgrading Cura from 4.12 to 5.6, my printer and slicing profiles seemed to transfer over automatically, but when I tried to slice and print, I encountered a strange issue: It no longer heats the extruders or the bed. It just starts "printing" immediately with stone-cold extruders and bed.
Thanks to some suggestions under that post, I've narrowed down the problem to a couple of lines of in the start gcode (located in Settings > Printer > Manage Printers... > Machine Settings).
Cura start gcode:
M140 S{material_bed_temperature, initial_extruder_nr} T0 ; set bed temperature M134 T0 ; stabilize bed temperature M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0, initial_extruder_nr} T{initial_extruder_nr} ; set left or right extruder temperature M133 T{initial_extruder_nr} ; stabilize left or right extruder temperature
While the start gcode is identical between 4.12 and 5.6, it seems to be written differently in the output file.
Cura 4.12 output gcode file:
M140 S55 T0 ; set bed temperature M134 T0 ; stabilize bed temperature M104 S205 T0 ; set left or right extruder temperature M133 T0 ; stabilize left or right extruder temperature
Cura 5.6 output gcode file:
M140 S(55, 0) T0 ; set bed temperature M134 T0 ; stabilize bed temperature M104 S(205, 0) T0 ; set left or right extruder temperature M133 T0 ; stabilize left or right extruder temperature
I think I've identified the problem, but don't fully understand the reason. Cura 5.6 seems to copy both the temperature
and initial_extruder_nr
values, and places them in parentheses.
Could this discrepancy be the cause of the bed and extruders not heating?
What is initial_extruder_nr
, and what does it do?
According to the fieldofview Replacement Patterns site, it is "the first extruder train used for the print". This doesn't sound like it is related to bed temperature.
Can I delete them from the temperature lines in the start gcode, or could this cause other issues?
Thanks in advance!
Edit: Whoops, this is embarrassing.
I just realized that sawecw commented two months ago on my original post and came to similar conclusions. I'll try Cura 5.7.
Edit 2:
I have upgraded to Cura 5.7, and can confirm that this bug has been fixed.
Unable to print TPU 93A
EDIT: solution is in the comments. TL;Dr retractions ON and INCREASE speed. Both opposite to common knowledge.
I can't print flexible TPU properly. It's either foamy, inconsistent extrusion or jam city, nothing else. I wasn't able to complete a single print properly in a week and probably 50 tries.
Tried
- 24 hours of active drying
- speeds of 10-30mm/s
- flow rate 1-1.2 (100-130%)
- temps 220-250 (mfg rec is 235-250)
- 0.4 and 0.6 nozzle
- Cura and PrusaSlicer
Direct drive (Biqu H2 V2s) on a well-tuned Ender 3 (no issues with ABS, PETG, even nylon). Part fan off. Printing on PP tape (no adhesion issue).
I can get halfway decent looking print with 250C and a Flow rate of ~140% but it eventually jams anyway. Lower temps give super inconsistent extrusion, nozzle spitting chunks intermittently.
At my wits' end. Any more tips? I don't have any other TPU ATM, may be just shitty filament? It's a cheapo polish F3D Filament TPU 93A. Thanks!